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Windows are one of the most neglected surfaces in most homes. They’re cleaned when they look dirty rather than on a schedule, and when they are cleaned, the wrong tools and products often leave them worse than before. Streaks, smears, mineral deposits, and scratched glass are almost always the result of technique, not effort.
This guide covers everything from picking the right squeegee to understanding which windows should never be DIY’d. Whether you’re tackling the whole house on a Saturday morning or just trying to sort out that one grimy window above the kitchen sink, you’ll find what you need here.
Most people grab a spray bottle and paper towels and wonder why their windows still look smeared. The right equipment makes the job faster, safer, and gives a result that actually lasts.
What you don’t need: newspaper (modern ink smears on glass), paper towels (they lint and leave residue), or an old T-shirt (fibres scratch soft coatings). These are persistent myths that make the job harder.
For most residential glass, a few drops of mild dish soap in a bucket of warm water is genuinely effective. The soap reduces surface tension so the water sheets off the glass cleanly rather than beading into droplets that leave mineral deposits behind.
For a homemade option that works well on lightly soiled glass, mix equal parts white vinegar and warm water. Vinegar cuts through grease and light mineral build-up without leaving residue. One important exception: do not use vinegar on tinted glass, Low-E coated glass, or bare aluminium frames. The acidity can strip protective coatings and cause frame pitting over time.
For hard-water staining (the white, chalky deposits common in homes with bore water irrigation or near the coast), dilute the vinegar further — 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water — and let it dwell on the glass for 30 seconds before scrubbing. Severe hard-water staining needs a specialist product like Bar Keepers Friend or a professional treatment. Professional window cleaning services use water purified by reverse osmosis or deionisation, which leaves zero mineral residue on the glass as it dries. It’s the reason professionally cleaned windows stay cleaner for longer.
Avoid: ammonia-based cleaners on tinted glass, aerosol spray cleaners on double-glazed units (the overspray degrades the rubber seal over time), and any abrasive powder or cream cleaner on glass surfaces.
This method works for standard clear glass at ground and first-floor level, indoors and out. Always work on a cloudy day or in the shade. Direct sunlight dries the solution before you can squeegee it off, baking streaks into the glass.
For interior windows, the same technique applies but skip the hose rinse. Start with the dry applicator to remove dust before applying any solution — dragging dust across glass with a wet cloth is a common cause of fine scratching.
Frequency depends heavily on where you live and what your windows are exposed to. As a general guide for Sydney homes:
For a full breakdown of how Sydney’s coastal environment affects window maintenance, see our guide on residential window cleaning for coastal properties.
Not all glass is the same. Using the wrong technique on the wrong surface causes damage that can’t be undone.
The tint on most residential windows is a film applied to the inner surface of the glass, not baked in. Avoid ammonia, vinegar at full concentration, and anything abrasive. Use a plain soapy water solution and a soft applicator. Do not use a razor scraper on tinted glass.
Insulated glazing units have a sealed argon gas gap between two panes. You can clean the outer surfaces normally. If you see fogging, condensation, or a milky haze between the panes, the seal has failed and cleaning won’t fix it. The unit needs replacing. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners near the frame edges, as the solvents degrade rubber seals over time.
Low-E glass has a metallic oxide coating on one surface that is easily damaged by acidic cleaners and abrasive pads. Stick to plain water or a purpose-made glass cleaner, and use only microfibre applicators. Never use a razor blade on Low-E glass.
Bare or powder-coated aluminium frames are sensitive to acid. Vinegar, citrus cleaners, and some commercial glass cleaners will strip powder coat and pit raw aluminium. Clean frames with warm water and a mild detergent, wiping with a soft cloth. For more detail, see our guide on how to clean outside windows, which covers frame care alongside the glass technique.
Skylights accumulate bird fouling, leaf tannin staining, and moss faster than vertical windows because water sits on them rather than running off. Clean with a soft brush and mild solution from the roof (safely, with appropriate footwear and a roof safety line). If access is difficult or the roof pitch is steep, this is a job for a professional.
The most common errors, and how to fix them:
DIY window cleaning works well for ground-floor windows on a single-storey home. As soon as height, specialist surfaces, or severe soiling enter the picture, the risk-to-reward ratio shifts quickly in favour of calling a professional.
Call a professional when:
For a complete breakdown of what separates professional technique from DIY, read our article on how to clean exterior windows, which covers surface types and the tools professionals actually use.
The biggest difference isn’t technique — it’s the water. Professional window cleaners on commercial and residential contracts use pure water delivered through a waterfed pole system. The water is purified by reverse osmosis or deionisation to remove all dissolved solids. When pure water dries on glass, it leaves nothing behind, producing a spot-free result without a squeegee.
This means professionals can clean faster, at height, with no chemicals, and produce a result that stays cleaner longer because there’s no soap residue on the glass surface to attract airborne dust. The same technology is available for residential properties — it’s not just a commercial solution.
Professional cleaners also carry the correct insurance, work at height safely, and can identify issues like failed IGU seals, frame corrosion, or soft-coat glass damage before they become expensive replacement jobs.
Only with extreme caution. A pressure washer at close range can crack glass, destroy window seals, and force water into wall cavities — causing hidden water damage. If you use one at all, keep it on the lowest pressure setting, hold the nozzle at least 60 cm from the glass, and use a wide-fan tip. For most residential windows, a garden hose on a gentle spray setting is safer and just as effective for pre-rinsing.
Usually one of three causes: cleaning in direct sun (the solution dries before you can remove it), using too much detergent (leaves a soapy film), or using a poor-quality squeegee blade (streaks on every pass). Try again on a cloudy day with a clean blade and a minimal amount of soap.
No. Diluted white vinegar (1:1 with water) is safe for standard clear glass. Do not use it on tinted glass, Low-E coated glass, or aluminium window frames. The acid in vinegar strips protective coatings and corrodes bare metal.
Pricing varies by property size, storey height, and access method. A standard single-storey home typically starts from $150 to $250 for a full interior and exterior clean. Multi-storey residential and commercial properties are priced on quote after a site assessment. The best way to get an accurate number is a free obligation-free quote from Shimmer.
Spring (September to November) is the most popular time for a full exterior clean after winter, when pollen, dust, and storm grime have built up. Autumn (March to May) is also a good window, before the wet season arrives. That said, Sydney’s mild climate means exterior windows benefit from cleaning year-round on a schedule rather than one or two seasonal cleans.
Yes, both outer surfaces (the outside of the outer pane and the inside of the inner pane) need regular cleaning. The gap between the panes is factory-sealed and cannot be cleaned. If you see fogging or condensation inside the gap, the seal has failed and the unit needs replacing, not cleaning.
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